Soju, shochu and schools: My parents second trip to Japan!

In November, my parents visited Japan for the second time, and it was equally as jam-packed as the first time, but in a different way. I alternated long weekends travelling with two/three days back in work, for about three weeks.  Although they visited so many places without me, I’ll stick to the places we visited together.

 

Seoul

 

A well-known favourite of mine, we met here to experience the apparent “hype” I gave this city. My mum fell in love and ate her body weight in fried chicken, in preparation for the weeks of dreaded Japanese food to come. I took them to all my favourite areas too; visiting palaces and museums, Namsan Tower and eating our way through Insadong and Namdaemun markets. 

We unintentionally timed our trip to coincide with the Seoul Lantern Festival, where lanterns depicting objects and people, float on Cheonggyecheon stream, a recreational area running through the city where you can walk along the banks. It was somewhat reminiscent of lantern festivals in Japan, however the calm music and the trickle of the stream created a completely different atmosphere that was super tranquil, hidden between the flashing lights of nearby neighbourhoods.

I’ve turned into a proper wimp when it comes to cold weather, and winter in South Korean is positively baltic… obviously my excuse to drink all of the soju and eat a hotteok when I couldn’t feel my hands. I got my mum stocked up with numerous beauty products of course, and she appreciated the men. The less said about that the better, but I’m pretty sure she wants to go back because there were so many places she’s heard me talk about, but we just didn’t have the time. My dad did seem extremely out of place in Hongdae around clubs and make up stalls galore, but fear not, he found numerous bars, including a Liverpool FC one. I guess you’ll never drink alone, no matter where you go.

Kobe, Himeji and Osaka

The next long weekend started nice and early for me, as I left at 5:00am to catch the shinkansen and meet my parents in Kobe. Close to Osaka, Kobe is famous for its China town (one of three in Japan) and its beef. Haruka also joined us for this part of the trip, and her shinkansen arrived from Nagoya just after mine.

First, we visited somewhere my dad had researched, but I had never heard of. He’s a bit of a professional now with his list of go-to spots in Japan, probably more so than me. Nunobuki Herb Garden is located right behind Shin-Kobe station, so we took the cable car and the view was glorious. The sky was clear and we could see almost all the way across Osaka Bay. 

There was a German festival at the time, so we slowly walked down the mountain fuelled by some mulled wine and bratwurst, plus the most amazing dango I’ve ever seen. There was an area full of hammocks, and a local musician played somewhat folky music to keep us entertained, even if both Haruka and I struggled getting in and out of them gracefully.

 

The trail down the mountain led us to a quiet waterfall, and once we reached the bottom we headed to China town and the harbour area. Kobe was much quieter than I expected, but I’m glad I’ve been. If nothing else to say I’ve eaten some dumplings there, and the infamous Kobe beef. Don’t get me wrong, it was expensive, but you can’t really go to Kobe without trying it. If you ever visit, ponder what I learnt; “all Kobe beef is wagyu, but not all wagyu is Kobe beef”.

Himeji was our second day trip, and despite living near one of the most amazing castles in Japan, you still can’t enter Kumamoto castle due to earthquake damage. So, Himeji was actually my first castle experience, and it didn’t disappoint. They actually limit the amount of visitors for the day since it’s so popular, but even with the huge numbers it didn’t seem rushed, or like you couldn’t see the wood for the trees. 

As with Kumamoto, parks near to castles often have food festivals, which we stumbled across in Himeji. My dad loves anything allowing him to try more local delicacies, so we snacked there before heading back to Osaka for custom Kit-Kat making, and spending our evening at a local yakitori joint eating some of the best grilled chicken with yuzu pepper paste.

Kumamoto 

Once my parents finally arrived in my stomping ground, the fun didn’t stop, with us going on adventures, eating with my friends, and them even gate-crashing an ALT pub quiz and complaining they didn’t win. Despite that, two stand out moments to me, and hopefully to them too, were dressing in kimono, and visiting my schools.

My mum has been obsessed with kokeshi dolls for as long as I can remember, so it was apt for her to want to dress like a real life one in a kimono. My friend Billy made time in her busy schedule to prepare the most amazing morning for us, laying out styles she thought my mum would like and dressing her with glee. Next was my turn, and Billy let me wear what she knows to be my favourite kimono of hers, along with a handmade fur obi that got many looks and is just fabulous. 

Shuffling around in our geta, we then took my dad to the local rental shop to get him in on the action too. He really embodied it, and I felt him taking on an Edo-esque personality before my eyes. Even the woman dressing him asked if it was his first time, as apparently he held himself perfectly.

The autumn leaves were at their prime, and at Suizenji Park we couldn’t have asked for a better backdrop to some cheesy family photos. I’m so glad Billy could give my parents a chance to experience something so typically Japanese.

A few months prior to my parent’s visit, one of my teachers had a demonstration lesson to plan and perform (with me might I add, talk about pressure) for numerous teachers from across the prefecture. Long story short, he based it upon their impending visit, and a month after the demonstration lesson, the occasion finally arrived.

Honestly I think some students thought I was just joking until that day, but my parents got to experience making origami, how to write their names through calligraphy, play kendama and making traditional helmets out of newspapers.

After lunch, we headed to one of my elementary schools to experience more calligraphy with 5^th graders, and 4^th graders prepared the most heart-warming presentations on their favourite Japanese things. I was really blown away by the whole thing, and especially how much effort everyone put in. We established that my mum is the most shocking kendama player on the planet, whereas my dad had all the kids going wild when he smashed the most difficult play.

I was so glad to have the opportunity to introduce my parents to school, because I hope they could understand what my daily life really is like, and why I love it so much. They left with so many gifts and letters from students, and despite the language barrier, I was so proud of my kids for trying so hard to communicate and be patient. I’m pretty sure my parents felt the love and gratitude from all of my students just as much as I did.

Two kinds of magic: Disney Sea and Team Lab

What’s the one place you want to go to celebrate turning a quarter of a century? Tokyo Disney Sea, no less. Not me, but Olivia, and I was happy to join her at the happiest place on earth. Tokyo Disney Sea is a little different in the sense its more adult orientated, filled with more people our age, and the best part… you can buy beer.

Matching outfits in tow, we were there bright and early and I was getting my Toy Story Mania fast pass, no matter who got in my way. We hadn’t initially intended to do so, but being the most popular ride in the park, I’d read stories of the crazy rush that ensues in the morning.

Since we had gotten there so early at around 7:20am, I figured I’d give it a go; ignoring all signs not to run, I rushed ahead when the gates opened and had our fast passes by 8:07am. Dedication or childishness, you decide.

Once that was out of the way, we headed back to the stores selling a plethora of Mickey ears, and settled on some simple ones that really cemented our cute matching outfits. Wanting to give Olivia the most embarrassing experience I could, I told staff it was her birthday (albeit the next day) and they gave her a sticker, prompting gleeful greetings from almost every cast member.

That’s the main reason I’d recommend Tokyo Disney over any other park; everyone gets SO into it. With costumes from Zootopia, ridiculous Toy Story Hamm hats favoured by high school girls, and an extortionate array of Duffy goods (a.k.a. the teddy bear designed specifically for Japan that Olivia has a raging hatred towards).

You really do feel the magic more. I even got Snow White nails for the occasion, so I was feeling the Disney magic all day, coming to a climax at the Minnie meet and greet. I swear I’m not sponsored by Disney for saying that, but if you’re reading this Walt, hit me up.

Food as always is something else in Tokyo Disney, and for the longest time I’ve wanted to try the Little Green Men mochi balls, filled with vanilla, strawberry and chocolate cream. We also ate the sickliest strawberry popcorn, a steamed bun in the shape of Sinbad’s tail, and Olivia got the Halloween special burger designed to look like Snow White’s apple.
I wanted both the Ursula and Cruella De Ville steamed buns too, but alas there’s only so much you can scoff in a day. I’ll admit though, while beer seemed like a great idea, getting out of the mid-afternoon lull in energy is even harder having drank one.

Another reason for going that weekend was it was officially Halloween season, so not only did themed foods take on a new life, but the parades and shows were themed too.
The Villians boat show was super cool, and the Fantasmic show in the evening was hands down the best I’ve ever seen at any Disney Park. We were lucky all day, with both the weather and shows.

We didn’t plan to see certain parades, but stumbled across them at the best vantage points. Due to an incoming typhoon the park was relatively quiet, meaning we’d hit all the main rides before lunch. A rarity in Disney, allowing for a relaxed afternoon of boat rides, theatrical jazz shows, and ending the evening camping out lakeside for the final firework display.

Day 2 was Olivia’s birthday, and we’d booked tickets to attend Team Lab’s Planets, an immersive space of digital artwork. We waded through water and sat in rooms with projections of koi fish and falling flowers, and walked through mirrored rooms of light and inflated spheres.

Not the most aesthetically pleasing, but my favourite had to be the black hole installation, where my ass happily sank into the room full of bean bags and I never wanted to leave.

The pictures really don’t do this place justice, and the best thing is you’re not rushed through it at all. We lay on floors and took it all it, and left fully refreshed, perfect since we were exhausted from the day before.

Sadly we only had a long weekend in Tokyo, but we managed to squeeze in so much. Dinner at the most beautiful yakitori restaurant with Zack (a former Kumamoto ALT positively thriving in Tokyo now), an evening roaming Shin Okubo eating Korean BBQ, drinking soju and thinking we’d been transported to Seoul, and a quick early morning visit to Asakusa for brunch and a few selfies sweating our tits off at Kaminarimon. I managed to catch my second ever glimpse of Mt. Fuji too, from the plane window thanks to the most adorable cabin attendants.

I always say how much I hate Tokyo, and I honestly don’t, I’ve just got to be in the right mood to deal with the hustle and bustle. Having the best travel partner in Olivia helped, and that trip reignited my love for the city again.
Until next time Tokyo, never change.

Sanrio taking over the shinkansen!

One of the things I love most about Japan is hands down the bullet train. I’ve used it that much I really should invest some shares in JR, and I think when I eventually go back to the UK I’ll have some withdrawal issues.

Anyone who knows me knows my love for Hello Kitty too, so naturally when JR announced a limited edition Hello Kitty train, I died and went to cutesy heaven.
Thankfully I already had a trip to Osaka planned, so it worked out perfectly. Even if it hadn’t, you know I’d have made some excuse to get on it.

Pulling into the station all I could see was a wave of passengers swamping the platform to take pictures. While some were definitely surprised, most, like me, already knew what to expect and had planned our spot on the platform accordingly. Since the train only makes one round-trip per day, the cleaning time allowed for some ample photo taking before boarding. The exterior of the train is adorned with a large ribbon, pretty iconic for Hello Kitty, and is as pink as you’d expect. 

Although it’s the slowest of the shinkansens, there’s a reason for this, as it stops at every station between Shin Osaka and Hakata. This is because this specific train was designed to pay homage to all of the prefectures along JR’s western Japan route. 

Each car had a motif outside for each prefecture the train passes: Fukuoka, Yamaguchi, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, Hiroshima, Hyogo, and Osaka. All of which showed Hello Kitty holding a local delicacy.

The first car, Hello! Plaza, isn’t a passenger car, but rather a gift shop. Exhibitions are also held here focusing on two prefectures at a time, showcasing local foods and souvenirs from the regions.
When I rode the train, this space was dedicated to Shimane and Tottori, famous for their black shells and green apples. 

Being the two of the least populated prefectures in Japan, I can only hope that this train helps raise some awareness to some of these lesser known but just as beautiful areas that many travellers overlook.

The second car, Kawaii! Room, was a passenger car with unreserved seating, decked out to the max with Hello Kitty as far as the eye could see. I rode the train on a long weekend, so this area was a nightmare to navigate, and rather than fight my way to a seat, I’d booked a seat in advance further back.

Cars 2 to 8 aren’t as decorated, but attention to detail wasn’t overlooked, even in the more subtle spaces. From window screens and doors to toilet signs, everything had a special touch.

As is always the case in Japan, the little things really add to making the experience even more immersive. This shinkansen wasn’t an exception, with a special Hello Kitty melody playing upon arrival at the stations.

At Hakata station there is a themed café, which I’m yet to visit, and also a shop to buy themed ekiben (train lunchboxes) if you want to eat Hello Kitty as well as ride on her train. I resisted the urge, but that didn’t stop me from losing my restraint and buying some socks.

The shinkansen started began on June 30^th of this year, and while it was only scheduled until early November, the service has already been extended due to its popularity.
That’s right, expect pictures of my dad on a pink bullet train in the imminent future.