Sanrio taking over the shinkansen!

One of the things I love most about Japan is hands down the bullet train. I’ve used it that much I really should invest some shares in JR, and I think when I eventually go back to the UK I’ll have some withdrawal issues.

Anyone who knows me knows my love for Hello Kitty too, so naturally when JR announced a limited edition Hello Kitty train, I died and went to cutesy heaven.
Thankfully I already had a trip to Osaka planned, so it worked out perfectly. Even if it hadn’t, you know I’d have made some excuse to get on it.

Pulling into the station all I could see was a wave of passengers swamping the platform to take pictures. While some were definitely surprised, most, like me, already knew what to expect and had planned our spot on the platform accordingly. Since the train only makes one round-trip per day, the cleaning time allowed for some ample photo taking before boarding. The exterior of the train is adorned with a large ribbon, pretty iconic for Hello Kitty, and is as pink as you’d expect. 

Although it’s the slowest of the shinkansens, there’s a reason for this, as it stops at every station between Shin Osaka and Hakata. This is because this specific train was designed to pay homage to all of the prefectures along JR’s western Japan route. 

Each car had a motif outside for each prefecture the train passes: Fukuoka, Yamaguchi, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, Hiroshima, Hyogo, and Osaka. All of which showed Hello Kitty holding a local delicacy.

The first car, Hello! Plaza, isn’t a passenger car, but rather a gift shop. Exhibitions are also held here focusing on two prefectures at a time, showcasing local foods and souvenirs from the regions.
When I rode the train, this space was dedicated to Shimane and Tottori, famous for their black shells and green apples. 

Being the two of the least populated prefectures in Japan, I can only hope that this train helps raise some awareness to some of these lesser known but just as beautiful areas that many travellers overlook.

The second car, Kawaii! Room, was a passenger car with unreserved seating, decked out to the max with Hello Kitty as far as the eye could see. I rode the train on a long weekend, so this area was a nightmare to navigate, and rather than fight my way to a seat, I’d booked a seat in advance further back.

Cars 2 to 8 aren’t as decorated, but attention to detail wasn’t overlooked, even in the more subtle spaces. From window screens and doors to toilet signs, everything had a special touch.

As is always the case in Japan, the little things really add to making the experience even more immersive. This shinkansen wasn’t an exception, with a special Hello Kitty melody playing upon arrival at the stations.

At Hakata station there is a themed café, which I’m yet to visit, and also a shop to buy themed ekiben (train lunchboxes) if you want to eat Hello Kitty as well as ride on her train. I resisted the urge, but that didn’t stop me from losing my restraint and buying some socks.

The shinkansen started began on June 30^th of this year, and while it was only scheduled until early November, the service has already been extended due to its popularity.
That’s right, expect pictures of my dad on a pink bullet train in the imminent future.

Summer Sonic 2018

Despite never having been to a festival in my life, I decided to jump right into the deep end this summer, and went to Summer Sonic in Osaka. 

It's similar to festivals back home, and like Leeds and Reading in the sense its line up alternates locations over the two days. However, since they take place in stadiums and outdoor sporting areas both in Tokyo and Osaka, people don't camp overnight.

Haruka and I decided to only go for one day, and we wouldn't have gone if it wasn't for our favourite band, One Ok Rock, announcing their performance. It's been almost 3 years since we saw them together in Manchester, and although I saw them in March too, it was a totally different experience seeing them at a festival in Japan compared to an arena. During their tour, fans were completely reserved with coordinated fist pumping and quietly listened to their singing. This was anything but that. I was bruised and filthy afterwards, but it was definitely the best atmosphere I've ever experienced at a concert.

 

There were five different stages, and luckily all of the artists we wanted to watch were at different times. Such a variety of artists attended so there really was something for everyone; we saw Mike Shinoda of Linkin Park, One Ok Rock, Paramore, Jess Glynne and overheard many others. 

There was also a magical little oasis area in amongst all of the stages, filled with a variety of food stalls and spaces to just chill out. Easily the best place to people watch and eat lemon ramen at sunset, surrounded by palm trees and booming music.

Frankly I dont think I could have handled another day in the blazing heat, but all things considered I did well. My white ass remained wonderfully snow white and sunburn free (thanks to a custom made kaftan courtesy of Simona for that exact purpose) and I didnt get heat stroke, something which I was super stressed about since I got it last year. Needless to say I had no shame and spent the best part of the afternoon wearing the cooling gel strips you put on kids who have a fever. 

 

I do have some standards though. When we were stuck in the midst of a mosh pit, Taka being less than a metre away and my hat flying off, my first instinct was to rip it off my forehead and fling it into the crowd. God knows where it ended up, but I'll be damned if I ever let Taka see me as the girl with a blue sticky strip on her forehead.  

Take a peek at our sweaty as hell after mosh pit picture, it sums the day up pretty well.

Summer, the time to refresh.

Summer is now over and classes are in full swing, so now I have time to reflect on my long vacation. As it is every year, summer in Kumamoto was positively soul destroying, but I think I am slowly (major emphasis on how slowly) getting used to living somewhere that makes me a sticky, nauseous mess for three months of the year. 

It’s been an unintentionally crafty summer break, starting with a visit to Mifune to make some pottery. Hidden down some of the quietest roads is the tiniest pottery studio, very rustic and family run.  Simona, Ruth and Sheridan decided to make bowls, Olivia a mug and I decided to make a vase. A risky choice that wouldn’t have gone as well without the guy coming to “fix” any issues, but I’m hoping it turns out all right. All I can hope for is that mine isn’t the one that explodes in the kiln and shatters everyone else’s. I nicknamed my vase Aso-kun for its resemblance to Mt. Aso, but I don’t need it to really embody its namesake. 

More recently I attended a glass art workshop, where I made a nice little holder decorated in coloured film. It looks exactly like stained glass, and it was the most therapeutic thing I’ve done in a while. I’ll be attending another next week where we can advance to slightly more intricate designs now that we have the basics down, and I’m hoping to make a Charles Rennie Mackintosh inspired rose design.

Despite still working every day, I’ve enjoyed rekindling friendships in summer that somewhat lost their way in the madness of the semester. Numerous nights were spent enjoying each other’s company, whether it be at BBQ’s, riverside picnics or even trips to the onsen. 

I’ve had a few dips in rivers and the sea throughout my gallivanting, even checking a new prefecture, Yamaguchi, off the list. Ironically, most Japanese visitors come to Tsunoshima to see the famous bridge and seldom spend time exploring the island. It was a fleeting road trip there and back in one day, but eating shaved ice on the beach and swimming in the bright blue water made me appreciate living in a country that is so diversely beautiful, no matter the season.

A huge amount of new faces came to Kumamoto this summer, something new for us all. The scariest thing is how much of a senpai I am now to the newbies, and that anything I tell them is taken so seriously with wide eyes and thanks. It’s made me realise how I’ve grown so much in the past two years here. It’s not been without struggles, mainly coming to terms with myself that I can’t change some aspects of Japanese culture as much as I’d like, but I know I wouldn’t change this experience for the world. The conflicts will only help me grow as a person.

Camping and a caldera: Outings in Aso

Earlier this month Olivia invited me on a little overnight camping excursion along with some teachers from her high school and their families. We both really had no idea what exactly it was that we were getting into, but there was something quite nostalgic about feeling like a kid again and not having to do anything. That was definitely confirmed when we were sat on the kids table for dinner.

 

The entire weekend was a fully scheduled affair, and once we arrived at the campsite in Takamori, we started doing a variety of activities prepared by the science teacher. In true camping fashion, the first call of order was to make a fire, and we all got to have a go. He’d even built a little contraption himself to get the first sparks going, but even with just a flint I didn’t make much progress, so I left it to the professionals. By that, I mean the 5 year old who was really giving it his all.

Next up was making incense sticks, a super messy process that involved some powder, water, lots of rolling and a little bit of patience. I’m shocked mine turned out as well as they did, since they did burn pretty well too. Finally we practiced some knot tying, with the help of an adorable little guide the teacher created for us to practice with our ropes.

It was a totally different food experience to what I expected camping. Never before have I eaten rice and miso soup cooked on a BBQ, followed later in the evening by a pizza cooked the same way that looked more like a 10cm high bread dome. 

It was super chilled in the evening though, after Olivia and I took a rather long soak in the nearby onsen, and returned to drink a few bevs under the shelter. The mood was somewhat ruined though whilst being harassed by too many large bugs that had seemingly been on steroids.

After our morning hike the next day, the schedule went somewhat out of the window, so Olivia and I decided to do our own thing. First we visited the Takamori Yusui Tunnel to give ourselves a little respite from the heat. Inside there was a variety of lanterns created by various schools in the area, and also an interesting water display. 

The tunnel was originally built for the local train, but once a water source was found, they changed to project to become an attraction in the area. A variety of strobe lighting and radio waves are used to manipulate the water into orbs and allow it to flow in different directions.

On our way back to the city we decided to give seeing the Mt. Aso caldera a go since we were already in the area. It’s only recently reopened to the public, but the gas emissions dictate almost by the minute if people are allowed to enter. 

Despite the warnings changing almost instantaneously, we made a break for it and managed to have all but a few seconds at the crater before we were evacuated. 

It’s taken me two years to get there, but at least now I can officially say I took a photo at the closest volcano to my house, even if I was coughing up a lung because of it.