Art Aquarium

After returning from Hong Kong, Kohei and I made a visit to the Art Aquarium on the 9^th floor of Hakata Station. The exhibition was only running for a short time, and it’s the first time it’s returned to Fukuoka in two years. The aquatic exhibition, created by artist Kimura Hidetomo, is based around 和, meaning both peace and Japan, along with the culture surrounding goldfish (kingyo) in Japan that has been around since the Edo period. 

Andonrium - small tanks covered in lace, creating shadows designed to enhance the natural beauty of the goldfish inside. These are based on andon, a lamp made from paper stretched over a bamboo, wood or metal frame; most commonly in a box shape with an inner stand for a small light.

Bonborium – tanks modelled on the traditional Japanese paper lanterns, bonbori, most commonly seen out in the open.

Super Oiran – undoubtedly the most impressive tank and focal point of the entire exhibition. Holding 3,000 goldfish, it was created to commemorate the 10^th anniversary. 

Temaririum – spherical tanks designed to mimic the traditional toy temari. Each was wrapped with colourful patterns of the braiding craft iga-kumihimo, which is an iconic characteristic of temari.

Prisrium F.12 and F.18 – two large 12 and 18 sided polyhedron tanks resembling diamonds. Each allowed the fish to be seen as sometimes big, small or even crooked, with light slowly diffusing around them. 

Show of Kingyo – Currently main stream aquarium tanks are viewed from the side, but traditionally kingyo was looked at from above. The lack of air bubbles or waves on the surface of the water enhanced the ability for people to appreciate the beauty of the fish inside the circular tank.

Kutani Goldfish Exhibition – the first appearance of this installation in Kyushu. Fish swam inside traditional Kutani porcelain which was adorned with goldfish designs, using the three foundational techniques of the art form: Kutani blue, akae red and hanatsue pink.

 

Kirikorium – cut glass technology, Edo-kiriko, combined with the modern craftwork of acrylic.

Tokogake Goldfish Ornament – an aquarium designed to imitate a hanging scroll. Black goldfish swam across the painting, alongside projections flowing with the movements and likenesses of the living goldfish. The inspiration comes from the Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic, describing beauty that is “imperfect, impermanent and incomplete”.

Tamaterium – inspired by the folk tale Urashima Taro, in which a fisherman receives a parting gift in the form of a tamatebako (jewelled box) from a mistress of the sea. The luxury tank is decorated using gold leaf foil techniques in 24 karat gold.

The goldfish are used as performers in a sense, and this combined with music, lighting, projections and abstract tank designs, creates a truly unique exhibition unlike any I’ve experienced before. Each area differs slightly in its design, and goldfish varieties are in abundance. 

Despite going on probably the busiest weekend of the year, it had such a magical atmosphere. In the evening, the exhibition transformed into a Night Aquarium, a more adult setting providing cocktails and live music performances; something I hope to experience if the Art Aquarium returns to Kyushu in the future.

Dim sum & the 'ding ding'

During Golden Week I decided to take Kohei on a (very early) birthday trip to Hong Kong. I was super sneaky the night we arrived, and managed to hide any glimpse of the infamous skyline until we visited The Peak. His face was priceless when he saw the lights emerging through the trees while we were riding the tram up the mountain, so ultimately, I think all of my “get your arse into gear, we need to get there before sunset” rants were worth it.

It’s been six years since I went there myself and I didn’t get much of a chance to explore back then, so it was very much like the first time visiting for the both of us. Kohei’s favourite film, that he recently introduced me to, is Forrest Gump, so I couldn’t not take him to Bubba Gump’s while we were there too.

I managed to help him tick off a number of tourist musts – taking the Star Ferry, eating egg waffles, riding the ‘ding ding’, and indulging in a traditional brekkie of macaroni soup. We spent most of our days going wherever the wind took us, all around the city; Sheung Wan, Central, Causeway Bay, North Point, Mongkok, TST and Lan Kwai Fong.

Hong Kong was seemingly having a Kumamoto ALT reunion that week, which none of us were aware of when we booked our flights. We spent one evening with Chloe, Devin, Tiago and Thomas drinking at eyebar, a rooftop bar 30 floors high that looks over Victoria Harbour. We didn’t let the wind and rain dampen our spirits, even if they did saturate our clothes. 

Another evening we met Bilal and Olivia for hotpot, which was an experience in itself. Zero English, food being thrown at us and we all collectively had no idea what was going on. Afterwards we headed to Mongkok to enjoy the hustle and bustle of the markets. Not to mention, introduce them to the joys of the hot drips of water that land on you from the apartment air cons.

Corane and Emily, two of my friends from the exchange programme I did in high school, were the best hosts I could have asked for. They took time out of their busy schedules to meet Kohei and me for the most authentic local lunch ever. We went to a food centre in Sheung Wan, sat on plastic tables and ordered amazing dim sum with the locals. I think Kohei thought he’d died and gone to heaven.

On our final day we ventured into the New Territories together, and after a slightly failed trip to the Mai Po Nature reserve, we instead walked for a little through marshes and farmland all whilst seeing the skyline of Shenzhen in the distance. 

We then headed to the small village of Ho Sheung Heung and treated ourselves to the most delicious soy milk and tofu pudding made by a local company. We also tried some street food outside of the station, steamed red bean pudding on a stick, and some magical coconut sugar thing that I can’t even explain. Sheung Shui station is a sight to behold in itself… due to its proximity to the Chinese border, the amount of people crossing into Hong Kong to buy huge quantities of goods proves to be an interesting people watching occasion.

That evening I met up with more of my friends from exchange, and had the most wonderful time catching up over dinner. We even planned a little reunion trip in Japan sometime, although the logistics of that will probably prove to be a nightmare. Afterwards, we all went to eat dessert, something that I enjoy most about Hong Kong. The nights never end and there are endless opportunities to keep the good company together for a few more laughs. 

That’s something I’m grateful for, the fact that 6 years later we can all meet and act like no time has passed. Until next time Hong Kong, you know I’ll be back.

A bit of Japanese culture; past and present.

I’ve been spending a fair bit of time up in Fukuoka recently, and with that came an opportunity I’d never heard about before. For the past few years, Kohei’s mum has been volunteering at the Nagasaki Kaido Event in Kokura.

This event sees participants walking parts of the old highway that stretches all the way from Kokura to Nagasaki, a grand 223km. Back in the Edo period, numerous goods were transported along this road to Dejima, Nagasaki, the only centre for overseas trade at the time.
Using the sugar transported along the highway, a confectionary culture grew alongside it, leading to the popular name ‘Sugar Road’.

We were tasked with serving zenzai (a sweet red bean soup with mochi) and other refreshments to the participants on one of the shorter courses. I had such a fun day and it was super entertaining to see people’s confusion upon realising there was a foreigner there. 

My old barista nature definitely kicked in when the waves of people arrived, and I got accustomed to the sticky fingers from the soup by the end of the day. I also got a picture with some super high up guy at one of the biggest department stores in that area, and definitely befriended his wife. Kohei on the other hand, befriended a little dog named Happy. 

Since Kohei’s mum is always so busy with work, it was one of the first times I’ve been able to spend some quality time with her outside of the apartment. Don’t get me wrong, I love our late night chats about cultural differences, but I love our matching Hawaiian aprons more. I’ve also had the opportunity to meet some of her friends lately, so I really feel like my Fukuoka family is growing little by little.

The night before I went to see One Ok Rock in Fukuoka. They’re my favourite Japanese band and despite seeing them three years ago in Manchester, I’ve always wanted to see them play on their home turf. I have to say, I’ve never felt so culturally out of place in my life; at every moment I’d usually be loud, the Japanese crowd was so quiet you could hear a pin drop. 

I’m thankful Kohei didn’t join in with the choreographed head banging and fist bumping… that being our first concert together could have been a deal breaker! Needless to say I still had a wonderful time as always, and the atmosphere was so much more emotional being one of the last tour dates in Japan for that album.  I’ve already booked tickets to see them again at Summer Sonic, a festival in Osaka which is serving as this year’s reunion with my bestie, Haruka. Looks like I've got a few months to get my Japanese rock concert etiquette on point.