Sanrio taking over the shinkansen!

One of the things I love most about Japan is hands down the bullet train. I’ve used it that much I really should invest some shares in JR, and I think when I eventually go back to the UK I’ll have some withdrawal issues.

Anyone who knows me knows my love for Hello Kitty too, so naturally when JR announced a limited edition Hello Kitty train, I died and went to cutesy heaven.
Thankfully I already had a trip to Osaka planned, so it worked out perfectly. Even if it hadn’t, you know I’d have made some excuse to get on it.

Pulling into the station all I could see was a wave of passengers swamping the platform to take pictures. While some were definitely surprised, most, like me, already knew what to expect and had planned our spot on the platform accordingly. Since the train only makes one round-trip per day, the cleaning time allowed for some ample photo taking before boarding. The exterior of the train is adorned with a large ribbon, pretty iconic for Hello Kitty, and is as pink as you’d expect. 

Although it’s the slowest of the shinkansens, there’s a reason for this, as it stops at every station between Shin Osaka and Hakata. This is because this specific train was designed to pay homage to all of the prefectures along JR’s western Japan route. 

Each car had a motif outside for each prefecture the train passes: Fukuoka, Yamaguchi, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, Hiroshima, Hyogo, and Osaka. All of which showed Hello Kitty holding a local delicacy.

The first car, Hello! Plaza, isn’t a passenger car, but rather a gift shop. Exhibitions are also held here focusing on two prefectures at a time, showcasing local foods and souvenirs from the regions.
When I rode the train, this space was dedicated to Shimane and Tottori, famous for their black shells and green apples. 

Being the two of the least populated prefectures in Japan, I can only hope that this train helps raise some awareness to some of these lesser known but just as beautiful areas that many travellers overlook.

The second car, Kawaii! Room, was a passenger car with unreserved seating, decked out to the max with Hello Kitty as far as the eye could see. I rode the train on a long weekend, so this area was a nightmare to navigate, and rather than fight my way to a seat, I’d booked a seat in advance further back.

Cars 2 to 8 aren’t as decorated, but attention to detail wasn’t overlooked, even in the more subtle spaces. From window screens and doors to toilet signs, everything had a special touch.

As is always the case in Japan, the little things really add to making the experience even more immersive. This shinkansen wasn’t an exception, with a special Hello Kitty melody playing upon arrival at the stations.

At Hakata station there is a themed café, which I’m yet to visit, and also a shop to buy themed ekiben (train lunchboxes) if you want to eat Hello Kitty as well as ride on her train. I resisted the urge, but that didn’t stop me from losing my restraint and buying some socks.

The shinkansen started began on June 30^th of this year, and while it was only scheduled until early November, the service has already been extended due to its popularity.
That’s right, expect pictures of my dad on a pink bullet train in the imminent future.

Art Aquarium

After returning from Hong Kong, Kohei and I made a visit to the Art Aquarium on the 9^th floor of Hakata Station. The exhibition was only running for a short time, and it’s the first time it’s returned to Fukuoka in two years. The aquatic exhibition, created by artist Kimura Hidetomo, is based around 和, meaning both peace and Japan, along with the culture surrounding goldfish (kingyo) in Japan that has been around since the Edo period. 

Andonrium - small tanks covered in lace, creating shadows designed to enhance the natural beauty of the goldfish inside. These are based on andon, a lamp made from paper stretched over a bamboo, wood or metal frame; most commonly in a box shape with an inner stand for a small light.

Bonborium – tanks modelled on the traditional Japanese paper lanterns, bonbori, most commonly seen out in the open.

Super Oiran – undoubtedly the most impressive tank and focal point of the entire exhibition. Holding 3,000 goldfish, it was created to commemorate the 10^th anniversary. 

Temaririum – spherical tanks designed to mimic the traditional toy temari. Each was wrapped with colourful patterns of the braiding craft iga-kumihimo, which is an iconic characteristic of temari.

Prisrium F.12 and F.18 – two large 12 and 18 sided polyhedron tanks resembling diamonds. Each allowed the fish to be seen as sometimes big, small or even crooked, with light slowly diffusing around them. 

Show of Kingyo – Currently main stream aquarium tanks are viewed from the side, but traditionally kingyo was looked at from above. The lack of air bubbles or waves on the surface of the water enhanced the ability for people to appreciate the beauty of the fish inside the circular tank.

Kutani Goldfish Exhibition – the first appearance of this installation in Kyushu. Fish swam inside traditional Kutani porcelain which was adorned with goldfish designs, using the three foundational techniques of the art form: Kutani blue, akae red and hanatsue pink.

 

Kirikorium – cut glass technology, Edo-kiriko, combined with the modern craftwork of acrylic.

Tokogake Goldfish Ornament – an aquarium designed to imitate a hanging scroll. Black goldfish swam across the painting, alongside projections flowing with the movements and likenesses of the living goldfish. The inspiration comes from the Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic, describing beauty that is “imperfect, impermanent and incomplete”.

Tamaterium – inspired by the folk tale Urashima Taro, in which a fisherman receives a parting gift in the form of a tamatebako (jewelled box) from a mistress of the sea. The luxury tank is decorated using gold leaf foil techniques in 24 karat gold.

The goldfish are used as performers in a sense, and this combined with music, lighting, projections and abstract tank designs, creates a truly unique exhibition unlike any I’ve experienced before. Each area differs slightly in its design, and goldfish varieties are in abundance. 

Despite going on probably the busiest weekend of the year, it had such a magical atmosphere. In the evening, the exhibition transformed into a Night Aquarium, a more adult setting providing cocktails and live music performances; something I hope to experience if the Art Aquarium returns to Kyushu in the future.

A bit of Japanese culture; past and present.

I’ve been spending a fair bit of time up in Fukuoka recently, and with that came an opportunity I’d never heard about before. For the past few years, Kohei’s mum has been volunteering at the Nagasaki Kaido Event in Kokura.

This event sees participants walking parts of the old highway that stretches all the way from Kokura to Nagasaki, a grand 223km. Back in the Edo period, numerous goods were transported along this road to Dejima, Nagasaki, the only centre for overseas trade at the time.
Using the sugar transported along the highway, a confectionary culture grew alongside it, leading to the popular name ‘Sugar Road’.

We were tasked with serving zenzai (a sweet red bean soup with mochi) and other refreshments to the participants on one of the shorter courses. I had such a fun day and it was super entertaining to see people’s confusion upon realising there was a foreigner there. 

My old barista nature definitely kicked in when the waves of people arrived, and I got accustomed to the sticky fingers from the soup by the end of the day. I also got a picture with some super high up guy at one of the biggest department stores in that area, and definitely befriended his wife. Kohei on the other hand, befriended a little dog named Happy. 

Since Kohei’s mum is always so busy with work, it was one of the first times I’ve been able to spend some quality time with her outside of the apartment. Don’t get me wrong, I love our late night chats about cultural differences, but I love our matching Hawaiian aprons more. I’ve also had the opportunity to meet some of her friends lately, so I really feel like my Fukuoka family is growing little by little.

The night before I went to see One Ok Rock in Fukuoka. They’re my favourite Japanese band and despite seeing them three years ago in Manchester, I’ve always wanted to see them play on their home turf. I have to say, I’ve never felt so culturally out of place in my life; at every moment I’d usually be loud, the Japanese crowd was so quiet you could hear a pin drop. 

I’m thankful Kohei didn’t join in with the choreographed head banging and fist bumping… that being our first concert together could have been a deal breaker! Needless to say I still had a wonderful time as always, and the atmosphere was so much more emotional being one of the last tour dates in Japan for that album.  I’ve already booked tickets to see them again at Summer Sonic, a festival in Osaka which is serving as this year’s reunion with my bestie, Haruka. Looks like I've got a few months to get my Japanese rock concert etiquette on point.