Soju, shochu and schools: My parents second trip to Japan!

In November, my parents visited Japan for the second time, and it was equally as jam-packed as the first time, but in a different way. I alternated long weekends travelling with two/three days back in work, for about three weeks.  Although they visited so many places without me, I’ll stick to the places we visited together.

 

Seoul

 

A well-known favourite of mine, we met here to experience the apparent “hype” I gave this city. My mum fell in love and ate her body weight in fried chicken, in preparation for the weeks of dreaded Japanese food to come. I took them to all my favourite areas too; visiting palaces and museums, Namsan Tower and eating our way through Insadong and Namdaemun markets. 

We unintentionally timed our trip to coincide with the Seoul Lantern Festival, where lanterns depicting objects and people, float on Cheonggyecheon stream, a recreational area running through the city where you can walk along the banks. It was somewhat reminiscent of lantern festivals in Japan, however the calm music and the trickle of the stream created a completely different atmosphere that was super tranquil, hidden between the flashing lights of nearby neighbourhoods.

I’ve turned into a proper wimp when it comes to cold weather, and winter in South Korean is positively baltic… obviously my excuse to drink all of the soju and eat a hotteok when I couldn’t feel my hands. I got my mum stocked up with numerous beauty products of course, and she appreciated the men. The less said about that the better, but I’m pretty sure she wants to go back because there were so many places she’s heard me talk about, but we just didn’t have the time. My dad did seem extremely out of place in Hongdae around clubs and make up stalls galore, but fear not, he found numerous bars, including a Liverpool FC one. I guess you’ll never drink alone, no matter where you go.

Kobe, Himeji and Osaka

The next long weekend started nice and early for me, as I left at 5:00am to catch the shinkansen and meet my parents in Kobe. Close to Osaka, Kobe is famous for its China town (one of three in Japan) and its beef. Haruka also joined us for this part of the trip, and her shinkansen arrived from Nagoya just after mine.

First, we visited somewhere my dad had researched, but I had never heard of. He’s a bit of a professional now with his list of go-to spots in Japan, probably more so than me. Nunobuki Herb Garden is located right behind Shin-Kobe station, so we took the cable car and the view was glorious. The sky was clear and we could see almost all the way across Osaka Bay. 

There was a German festival at the time, so we slowly walked down the mountain fuelled by some mulled wine and bratwurst, plus the most amazing dango I’ve ever seen. There was an area full of hammocks, and a local musician played somewhat folky music to keep us entertained, even if both Haruka and I struggled getting in and out of them gracefully.

 

The trail down the mountain led us to a quiet waterfall, and once we reached the bottom we headed to China town and the harbour area. Kobe was much quieter than I expected, but I’m glad I’ve been. If nothing else to say I’ve eaten some dumplings there, and the infamous Kobe beef. Don’t get me wrong, it was expensive, but you can’t really go to Kobe without trying it. If you ever visit, ponder what I learnt; “all Kobe beef is wagyu, but not all wagyu is Kobe beef”.

Himeji was our second day trip, and despite living near one of the most amazing castles in Japan, you still can’t enter Kumamoto castle due to earthquake damage. So, Himeji was actually my first castle experience, and it didn’t disappoint. They actually limit the amount of visitors for the day since it’s so popular, but even with the huge numbers it didn’t seem rushed, or like you couldn’t see the wood for the trees. 

As with Kumamoto, parks near to castles often have food festivals, which we stumbled across in Himeji. My dad loves anything allowing him to try more local delicacies, so we snacked there before heading back to Osaka for custom Kit-Kat making, and spending our evening at a local yakitori joint eating some of the best grilled chicken with yuzu pepper paste.

Kumamoto 

Once my parents finally arrived in my stomping ground, the fun didn’t stop, with us going on adventures, eating with my friends, and them even gate-crashing an ALT pub quiz and complaining they didn’t win. Despite that, two stand out moments to me, and hopefully to them too, were dressing in kimono, and visiting my schools.

My mum has been obsessed with kokeshi dolls for as long as I can remember, so it was apt for her to want to dress like a real life one in a kimono. My friend Billy made time in her busy schedule to prepare the most amazing morning for us, laying out styles she thought my mum would like and dressing her with glee. Next was my turn, and Billy let me wear what she knows to be my favourite kimono of hers, along with a handmade fur obi that got many looks and is just fabulous. 

Shuffling around in our geta, we then took my dad to the local rental shop to get him in on the action too. He really embodied it, and I felt him taking on an Edo-esque personality before my eyes. Even the woman dressing him asked if it was his first time, as apparently he held himself perfectly.

The autumn leaves were at their prime, and at Suizenji Park we couldn’t have asked for a better backdrop to some cheesy family photos. I’m so glad Billy could give my parents a chance to experience something so typically Japanese.

A few months prior to my parent’s visit, one of my teachers had a demonstration lesson to plan and perform (with me might I add, talk about pressure) for numerous teachers from across the prefecture. Long story short, he based it upon their impending visit, and a month after the demonstration lesson, the occasion finally arrived.

Honestly I think some students thought I was just joking until that day, but my parents got to experience making origami, how to write their names through calligraphy, play kendama and making traditional helmets out of newspapers.

After lunch, we headed to one of my elementary schools to experience more calligraphy with 5^th graders, and 4^th graders prepared the most heart-warming presentations on their favourite Japanese things. I was really blown away by the whole thing, and especially how much effort everyone put in. We established that my mum is the most shocking kendama player on the planet, whereas my dad had all the kids going wild when he smashed the most difficult play.

I was so glad to have the opportunity to introduce my parents to school, because I hope they could understand what my daily life really is like, and why I love it so much. They left with so many gifts and letters from students, and despite the language barrier, I was so proud of my kids for trying so hard to communicate and be patient. I’m pretty sure my parents felt the love and gratitude from all of my students just as much as I did.

Sanrio taking over the shinkansen!

One of the things I love most about Japan is hands down the bullet train. I’ve used it that much I really should invest some shares in JR, and I think when I eventually go back to the UK I’ll have some withdrawal issues.

Anyone who knows me knows my love for Hello Kitty too, so naturally when JR announced a limited edition Hello Kitty train, I died and went to cutesy heaven.
Thankfully I already had a trip to Osaka planned, so it worked out perfectly. Even if it hadn’t, you know I’d have made some excuse to get on it.

Pulling into the station all I could see was a wave of passengers swamping the platform to take pictures. While some were definitely surprised, most, like me, already knew what to expect and had planned our spot on the platform accordingly. Since the train only makes one round-trip per day, the cleaning time allowed for some ample photo taking before boarding. The exterior of the train is adorned with a large ribbon, pretty iconic for Hello Kitty, and is as pink as you’d expect. 

Although it’s the slowest of the shinkansens, there’s a reason for this, as it stops at every station between Shin Osaka and Hakata. This is because this specific train was designed to pay homage to all of the prefectures along JR’s western Japan route. 

Each car had a motif outside for each prefecture the train passes: Fukuoka, Yamaguchi, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, Hiroshima, Hyogo, and Osaka. All of which showed Hello Kitty holding a local delicacy.

The first car, Hello! Plaza, isn’t a passenger car, but rather a gift shop. Exhibitions are also held here focusing on two prefectures at a time, showcasing local foods and souvenirs from the regions.
When I rode the train, this space was dedicated to Shimane and Tottori, famous for their black shells and green apples. 

Being the two of the least populated prefectures in Japan, I can only hope that this train helps raise some awareness to some of these lesser known but just as beautiful areas that many travellers overlook.

The second car, Kawaii! Room, was a passenger car with unreserved seating, decked out to the max with Hello Kitty as far as the eye could see. I rode the train on a long weekend, so this area was a nightmare to navigate, and rather than fight my way to a seat, I’d booked a seat in advance further back.

Cars 2 to 8 aren’t as decorated, but attention to detail wasn’t overlooked, even in the more subtle spaces. From window screens and doors to toilet signs, everything had a special touch.

As is always the case in Japan, the little things really add to making the experience even more immersive. This shinkansen wasn’t an exception, with a special Hello Kitty melody playing upon arrival at the stations.

At Hakata station there is a themed café, which I’m yet to visit, and also a shop to buy themed ekiben (train lunchboxes) if you want to eat Hello Kitty as well as ride on her train. I resisted the urge, but that didn’t stop me from losing my restraint and buying some socks.

The shinkansen started began on June 30^th of this year, and while it was only scheduled until early November, the service has already been extended due to its popularity.
That’s right, expect pictures of my dad on a pink bullet train in the imminent future.

Summer Sonic 2018

Despite never having been to a festival in my life, I decided to jump right into the deep end this summer, and went to Summer Sonic in Osaka. 

It's similar to festivals back home, and like Leeds and Reading in the sense its line up alternates locations over the two days. However, since they take place in stadiums and outdoor sporting areas both in Tokyo and Osaka, people don't camp overnight.

Haruka and I decided to only go for one day, and we wouldn't have gone if it wasn't for our favourite band, One Ok Rock, announcing their performance. It's been almost 3 years since we saw them together in Manchester, and although I saw them in March too, it was a totally different experience seeing them at a festival in Japan compared to an arena. During their tour, fans were completely reserved with coordinated fist pumping and quietly listened to their singing. This was anything but that. I was bruised and filthy afterwards, but it was definitely the best atmosphere I've ever experienced at a concert.

 

There were five different stages, and luckily all of the artists we wanted to watch were at different times. Such a variety of artists attended so there really was something for everyone; we saw Mike Shinoda of Linkin Park, One Ok Rock, Paramore, Jess Glynne and overheard many others. 

There was also a magical little oasis area in amongst all of the stages, filled with a variety of food stalls and spaces to just chill out. Easily the best place to people watch and eat lemon ramen at sunset, surrounded by palm trees and booming music.

Frankly I dont think I could have handled another day in the blazing heat, but all things considered I did well. My white ass remained wonderfully snow white and sunburn free (thanks to a custom made kaftan courtesy of Simona for that exact purpose) and I didnt get heat stroke, something which I was super stressed about since I got it last year. Needless to say I had no shame and spent the best part of the afternoon wearing the cooling gel strips you put on kids who have a fever. 

 

I do have some standards though. When we were stuck in the midst of a mosh pit, Taka being less than a metre away and my hat flying off, my first instinct was to rip it off my forehead and fling it into the crowd. God knows where it ended up, but I'll be damned if I ever let Taka see me as the girl with a blue sticky strip on her forehead.  

Take a peek at our sweaty as hell after mosh pit picture, it sums the day up pretty well.

Kansai with Kouchan.

After going to Tokyo Disneyland earlier this year, I knew I had to experience the other side of Japanese theme parks, Universal. What better time to do this than during October, when all the cuteness was juxtaposed by zombies roaming the streets after 6pm. Since one side of Kohei’s family lives in nearby Kishiwada, this trip really did kill two birds with one stone (with me being one of the birds absolutely flapping about meeting the fam).

USJ was more than I could have expected, especially after visiting Universal in America so many times. The atmosphere is really amplified with everyone dressing in costumes just like they do at Disney, so of course I jumped on the bandwagon. I have to say I was pretty impressed with our DIY Cookie Monster and cookie costumes, which so many people complemented and I made the night before our trip. I’ve got no idea where this wave of artistic talent has come from, but I’m praying it lasts until Halloween so I don’t look like a complete knob in my planned outfit.

Being the big child I am I was more interested in the whole Minion aspect more than anything else, and was thrilled to find even the minion meat buns were Halloween themed too. Who needs to go to Harry Potter and battle the crowds when you can see hundreds of cute kids running around dressed like Minions.

In Osaka we made a quick visit to a reptile café, which had so many it was hard to choose which one to hold. All I wanted was to hold a chameleon, but guess whose day off it was. Despite being a little bitter about that (come on, have you seen how cute a chameleons hands are?) I got to hold this thing. I don’t even know what animal it is, but oh my god I need one.

On the Sunday, Kohei and I ventured into Kyoto to visit a pug café which was frankly the most relaxing experience of my life. The puppies were even wearing nappies and I think Kohei’s developed a new found love for small dogs. That being said, no pug can replace Mimi Hattori in my life, even if little Yuzu-chan in her nappy came close.

Meeting Kohei’s family and friends was super overwhelming at times, especially with me being sick combined with their Osaka-ben Japanese, but overall I think it went well. I got gifted so much omiyage for my return, a bunch of oranges from Wakayama prefecture where his dad visited during our trip, and his auntie even messages me on LINE now. 

Despite scaring his step-sister into oblivion when she woke up to see me in the kitchen, I think I made an impression on the little 2 year old munchkin. We’re going to be best friends when I see her again, especially after I taught her how to make animal noises in English and she taught me to “nyan nyan” like a cat.