Soju, shochu and schools: My parents second trip to Japan!

In November, my parents visited Japan for the second time, and it was equally as jam-packed as the first time, but in a different way. I alternated long weekends travelling with two/three days back in work, for about three weeks.  Although they visited so many places without me, I’ll stick to the places we visited together.

 

Seoul

 

A well-known favourite of mine, we met here to experience the apparent “hype” I gave this city. My mum fell in love and ate her body weight in fried chicken, in preparation for the weeks of dreaded Japanese food to come. I took them to all my favourite areas too; visiting palaces and museums, Namsan Tower and eating our way through Insadong and Namdaemun markets. 

We unintentionally timed our trip to coincide with the Seoul Lantern Festival, where lanterns depicting objects and people, float on Cheonggyecheon stream, a recreational area running through the city where you can walk along the banks. It was somewhat reminiscent of lantern festivals in Japan, however the calm music and the trickle of the stream created a completely different atmosphere that was super tranquil, hidden between the flashing lights of nearby neighbourhoods.

I’ve turned into a proper wimp when it comes to cold weather, and winter in South Korean is positively baltic… obviously my excuse to drink all of the soju and eat a hotteok when I couldn’t feel my hands. I got my mum stocked up with numerous beauty products of course, and she appreciated the men. The less said about that the better, but I’m pretty sure she wants to go back because there were so many places she’s heard me talk about, but we just didn’t have the time. My dad did seem extremely out of place in Hongdae around clubs and make up stalls galore, but fear not, he found numerous bars, including a Liverpool FC one. I guess you’ll never drink alone, no matter where you go.

Kobe, Himeji and Osaka

The next long weekend started nice and early for me, as I left at 5:00am to catch the shinkansen and meet my parents in Kobe. Close to Osaka, Kobe is famous for its China town (one of three in Japan) and its beef. Haruka also joined us for this part of the trip, and her shinkansen arrived from Nagoya just after mine.

First, we visited somewhere my dad had researched, but I had never heard of. He’s a bit of a professional now with his list of go-to spots in Japan, probably more so than me. Nunobuki Herb Garden is located right behind Shin-Kobe station, so we took the cable car and the view was glorious. The sky was clear and we could see almost all the way across Osaka Bay. 

There was a German festival at the time, so we slowly walked down the mountain fuelled by some mulled wine and bratwurst, plus the most amazing dango I’ve ever seen. There was an area full of hammocks, and a local musician played somewhat folky music to keep us entertained, even if both Haruka and I struggled getting in and out of them gracefully.

 

The trail down the mountain led us to a quiet waterfall, and once we reached the bottom we headed to China town and the harbour area. Kobe was much quieter than I expected, but I’m glad I’ve been. If nothing else to say I’ve eaten some dumplings there, and the infamous Kobe beef. Don’t get me wrong, it was expensive, but you can’t really go to Kobe without trying it. If you ever visit, ponder what I learnt; “all Kobe beef is wagyu, but not all wagyu is Kobe beef”.

Himeji was our second day trip, and despite living near one of the most amazing castles in Japan, you still can’t enter Kumamoto castle due to earthquake damage. So, Himeji was actually my first castle experience, and it didn’t disappoint. They actually limit the amount of visitors for the day since it’s so popular, but even with the huge numbers it didn’t seem rushed, or like you couldn’t see the wood for the trees. 

As with Kumamoto, parks near to castles often have food festivals, which we stumbled across in Himeji. My dad loves anything allowing him to try more local delicacies, so we snacked there before heading back to Osaka for custom Kit-Kat making, and spending our evening at a local yakitori joint eating some of the best grilled chicken with yuzu pepper paste.

Kumamoto 

Once my parents finally arrived in my stomping ground, the fun didn’t stop, with us going on adventures, eating with my friends, and them even gate-crashing an ALT pub quiz and complaining they didn’t win. Despite that, two stand out moments to me, and hopefully to them too, were dressing in kimono, and visiting my schools.

My mum has been obsessed with kokeshi dolls for as long as I can remember, so it was apt for her to want to dress like a real life one in a kimono. My friend Billy made time in her busy schedule to prepare the most amazing morning for us, laying out styles she thought my mum would like and dressing her with glee. Next was my turn, and Billy let me wear what she knows to be my favourite kimono of hers, along with a handmade fur obi that got many looks and is just fabulous. 

Shuffling around in our geta, we then took my dad to the local rental shop to get him in on the action too. He really embodied it, and I felt him taking on an Edo-esque personality before my eyes. Even the woman dressing him asked if it was his first time, as apparently he held himself perfectly.

The autumn leaves were at their prime, and at Suizenji Park we couldn’t have asked for a better backdrop to some cheesy family photos. I’m so glad Billy could give my parents a chance to experience something so typically Japanese.

A few months prior to my parent’s visit, one of my teachers had a demonstration lesson to plan and perform (with me might I add, talk about pressure) for numerous teachers from across the prefecture. Long story short, he based it upon their impending visit, and a month after the demonstration lesson, the occasion finally arrived.

Honestly I think some students thought I was just joking until that day, but my parents got to experience making origami, how to write their names through calligraphy, play kendama and making traditional helmets out of newspapers.

After lunch, we headed to one of my elementary schools to experience more calligraphy with 5^th graders, and 4^th graders prepared the most heart-warming presentations on their favourite Japanese things. I was really blown away by the whole thing, and especially how much effort everyone put in. We established that my mum is the most shocking kendama player on the planet, whereas my dad had all the kids going wild when he smashed the most difficult play.

I was so glad to have the opportunity to introduce my parents to school, because I hope they could understand what my daily life really is like, and why I love it so much. They left with so many gifts and letters from students, and despite the language barrier, I was so proud of my kids for trying so hard to communicate and be patient. I’m pretty sure my parents felt the love and gratitude from all of my students just as much as I did.

My little souvenir from Seoul.

I’ve followed Banul for a few years now, and her delicate designs have made me fall more and more in love with her tattooing style over time. She is extremely busy, so when I noticed she’d opened bookings coinciding with a trip I’d already planned, I threw caution to the wind and hoped for the best.

Despite my tight schedule, I managed to get an appointment for the day I arrived in Seoul; so after heading practically straight from the airport, I was about to embark on my first tattoo adventure.

Upon entering her studio, I felt more like a treasured roommate than a customer in the best way. I arrived at 6pm and left at 10:45pm, with the tattoo taking just over two and a half hours. The rest of the time was dedicated to redrawing my design to get it perfect and feeding me instant tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes).

Banul creates her floral designs using real photos of flowers, before photoshopping them into a design on her computer. As we’d discussed my idea beforehand, she had three designs waiting for me. After seeing my skin, we decided some pinks would be too light, and after giving my opinions she spent over an hour and a half creating a new design I was completely happy with. Banul is so talented, in the sense that even before I’d voiced my opinions, she was already drawing exactly what I wanted.

I couldn’t have asked for a more comfortable experience, and would totally recommend her to anyone interested. I almost fell asleep on the table, because the gospel music playing and her angelic singing throughout added to how relaxed I was.

It’s healing like a beaut, and I feel like it’s been part of me for much longer than it has. I think that’s why Banul is just so good. Not only can she create intricate pieces of art, but she understands you on a personal level and is fully devoted to taking her time and giving you exactly what you imagined. The pictures she put on her Instagram of my tattoo got over 7,000 likes, so many more people have been absorbed by the beauty of her tattoos too. Does that make me Instagram famous? Maybe not, maybe just my side boob.

Getting this tattoo has been a learning curve in more ways than one. The main one? Having to go braless for two weeks (I’m on day 6, will it never end?!), when I’ve barely done more than a cheeky Tesco run *Non-Brits, read ventured outside* without one in about 10 years.

School has been interesting… I’m wearing more layers of clothes to ensure I don’t smack a kid in the head, and I’ll admit I had to body swerve a special needs kid who came running up to me for a hug. That kind of contact I was not, and still aren’t quite ready for.

To those of you who go without a bra daily, I applaud you. For me, I’m counting down the days until this hell is over and I’ll celebrate with a large glass of wine.

Halloween in Seoul: soju, shopping and some sugar & spice.

Visiting Seoul for Halloween was one of the best ideas I’ve had in a while. I’m pretty sure I spent 90% of it a hungover mess, but it was definitely worth it. Halloween itself was one of the best I’ve ever had; our PowerPuff Girl costumes went down a storm and I’ve never seen anything quite as comparable to Seoul nightlife. It’s been a long time since I’ve been in a club so jam packed, and filled with beautiful boys, of course.  

Buhkansan National Park

We spent one day hiking a few trails and boy, what a view. We had an impromptu picnic at a lookout point too, and it was really nice to just sit, watch the world go by, and forget about having responsibilities and teaching children for a little while. Thankfully we all lived to tell the tale, despite some near misses… *cough* Clare. I’ve never seen that side of Seoul before, usually just the daily buzz the city has to offer, so it was definitely a welcomed change.

 

Hello Kitty Café

Last time, although I’d managed to visit the Myeongdong Hello Kitty café, this one was being re-located, much to my disappointment. I’d planned to go back to this one for the longest time, and wasn’t quite expecting to stumble across it on Halloween as it was conveniently next door to the toppoki place we chose to eat at. Saving the excitement for another day, when I finally went, I discovered how magical this café was. Hidden amongst trees in the quietest part of Hongdae, a little pink house emerged as you climbed the stairs. It’s something I’d expect to see in an enchanted forest, and the inside didn’t disappoint either.

 It’s the biggest Hello Kitty café I’ve been to, and is themed like a house, with a fireplace area, bedrooms and balconies on the second floor. I matched the décor perfectly in my Sanrio sweater too (I swear I didn’t plan it, but either way I looked the definition of kawaii). Kudos to Chloe for allowing me to indulge my childish nature for a while and taking pictures of me lying in Hello Kitty’s bed. It takes a special kind of person to accept me for who I am.

Café Blind Alley

On one of my many days researching quaint locations in Seoul, I stumbled across a raccoon café and knew immediately I had to go. We went later in the evening, and despite that being the time when raccoons are meant to be their most active, what a complete lie. Even still, they’re super cute to look at when they’re sleeping, and the coffee was damn good too.

 

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Another one of my “must visit when in Seoul” locations was the LED light garden located on the rooftop.  Each flower represents one day of Korea’s independence over the past 70 years, meaning there are now over 25,000 lit up every night. It was so beautiful and had such a lovely relaxing atmosphere. I’m happy that this exhibition has remained longer than initially intended so I finally got to go, even if that does make me sound like a nerd wanting to see a bunch of lit up flowers.

The thing I enjoy most about Korea is the people. There is such a wonderful vibe in the city that’s really hard to put your finger on, but it’s been apparent each time I’ve visited and keeps me wanting more. One of my favourite past times in the city is walking round Hongdae, soaking up all the vibes and watching college kids performing k-pop dances on the streets. I will admit I got a bit carried away watching a certain bunch, since they slayed BTS’s new single, much to my enjoyment. 

Seoul during autumn is beautiful, and the urge to go back is even stronger now. The roasted chestnuts, burnt orange foliage and grapefruit soju all helped to create a nice homely feeling, at a time when I was a little sad for not being home for the traditions of Bonfire Night. It was nice having visited Seoul before to not have to run around visiting all the tourist attractions. 

Instead, I got to experience the ‘real Seoul’, even if that did mean drinking chestnut makgeolli in a park at 3am and convincing some boys into going to noraebang (Korean karaoke). Said boys went to school with a famous rapper I listen to, which they were surprised by, proving that in Seoul, you can honestly befriend anyone. Randomly playing Korean drinking games with musical theatre teachers, who proceeded to perform a little number for us (at a chicken restaurant, no less) pretty much sums this up.

Along with meeting numerous new friends, I got to reunite with an old one too. Jah met us all on Halloween for a crazy night, and I managed to see him again for dinner at what is, hands down, my favourite restaurant in Seoul. He remembered exactly what my favourite food was too; ultimate friend goals right there. It’s always nice to have a local to do all the Korean talking for you, and a friendly face to go back to when I inevitably return again.