Halloween in Seoul: soju, shopping and some sugar & spice.

Visiting Seoul for Halloween was one of the best ideas I’ve had in a while. I’m pretty sure I spent 90% of it a hungover mess, but it was definitely worth it. Halloween itself was one of the best I’ve ever had; our PowerPuff Girl costumes went down a storm and I’ve never seen anything quite as comparable to Seoul nightlife. It’s been a long time since I’ve been in a club so jam packed, and filled with beautiful boys, of course.  

Buhkansan National Park

We spent one day hiking a few trails and boy, what a view. We had an impromptu picnic at a lookout point too, and it was really nice to just sit, watch the world go by, and forget about having responsibilities and teaching children for a little while. Thankfully we all lived to tell the tale, despite some near misses… *cough* Clare. I’ve never seen that side of Seoul before, usually just the daily buzz the city has to offer, so it was definitely a welcomed change.

 

Hello Kitty Café

Last time, although I’d managed to visit the Myeongdong Hello Kitty café, this one was being re-located, much to my disappointment. I’d planned to go back to this one for the longest time, and wasn’t quite expecting to stumble across it on Halloween as it was conveniently next door to the toppoki place we chose to eat at. Saving the excitement for another day, when I finally went, I discovered how magical this café was. Hidden amongst trees in the quietest part of Hongdae, a little pink house emerged as you climbed the stairs. It’s something I’d expect to see in an enchanted forest, and the inside didn’t disappoint either.

 It’s the biggest Hello Kitty café I’ve been to, and is themed like a house, with a fireplace area, bedrooms and balconies on the second floor. I matched the décor perfectly in my Sanrio sweater too (I swear I didn’t plan it, but either way I looked the definition of kawaii). Kudos to Chloe for allowing me to indulge my childish nature for a while and taking pictures of me lying in Hello Kitty’s bed. It takes a special kind of person to accept me for who I am.

Café Blind Alley

On one of my many days researching quaint locations in Seoul, I stumbled across a raccoon café and knew immediately I had to go. We went later in the evening, and despite that being the time when raccoons are meant to be their most active, what a complete lie. Even still, they’re super cute to look at when they’re sleeping, and the coffee was damn good too.

 

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

Another one of my “must visit when in Seoul” locations was the LED light garden located on the rooftop.  Each flower represents one day of Korea’s independence over the past 70 years, meaning there are now over 25,000 lit up every night. It was so beautiful and had such a lovely relaxing atmosphere. I’m happy that this exhibition has remained longer than initially intended so I finally got to go, even if that does make me sound like a nerd wanting to see a bunch of lit up flowers.

The thing I enjoy most about Korea is the people. There is such a wonderful vibe in the city that’s really hard to put your finger on, but it’s been apparent each time I’ve visited and keeps me wanting more. One of my favourite past times in the city is walking round Hongdae, soaking up all the vibes and watching college kids performing k-pop dances on the streets. I will admit I got a bit carried away watching a certain bunch, since they slayed BTS’s new single, much to my enjoyment. 

Seoul during autumn is beautiful, and the urge to go back is even stronger now. The roasted chestnuts, burnt orange foliage and grapefruit soju all helped to create a nice homely feeling, at a time when I was a little sad for not being home for the traditions of Bonfire Night. It was nice having visited Seoul before to not have to run around visiting all the tourist attractions. 

Instead, I got to experience the ‘real Seoul’, even if that did mean drinking chestnut makgeolli in a park at 3am and convincing some boys into going to noraebang (Korean karaoke). Said boys went to school with a famous rapper I listen to, which they were surprised by, proving that in Seoul, you can honestly befriend anyone. Randomly playing Korean drinking games with musical theatre teachers, who proceeded to perform a little number for us (at a chicken restaurant, no less) pretty much sums this up.

Along with meeting numerous new friends, I got to reunite with an old one too. Jah met us all on Halloween for a crazy night, and I managed to see him again for dinner at what is, hands down, my favourite restaurant in Seoul. He remembered exactly what my favourite food was too; ultimate friend goals right there. It’s always nice to have a local to do all the Korean talking for you, and a friendly face to go back to when I inevitably return again.

Arashiyama & Fushimi Inari: off the bucket list.

Kyoto was filled with even more hustle and bustle during my second week there, as the Gion Matsuri was fast approaching! Floats began being built on the streets in the weeks leading up to it, and one day we actually got to board one to see what it was like. All of them have different meanings and are very intricate, but sticking to tradition. none of them are actually powered. During the festival parade, the floats are pulled by various men, and when it comes to turning down streets, bamboo is laid on the floor and sprayed with water, before the wheels are slid along.

Sadly for us, by the time the parade came around, a typhoon had also made landfall in Japan. That didn't stop us from going, however I'm pretty sure it really put a dampener (excuse the pun) on the festival as a whole, since not nearly as many people came to watch.

Despite classes being as jam packed as ever, I managed to visit a fair few places that I'd wanted to go! Firstly, we had a day trip organised to Arashiyama, nearing the outskirts of Kyoto. We took the Torokko train one way alongside, then returned on a boat cruise along the Hozugawa river. It was such a relaxing experience, and while we were on the river a food boat even moored up to us that sold dango and fresh squid. Then we finally got to the famous bamboo groves of Arashiyama, and I got to experience something known in Japanese as komorebi. It can only be translated in English as the sunlight that filters through the trees, and to see that through the bamboo groves was pretty beautiful.

That day was super hot, so we decided to go to Fushimi Inari for sunset. It was actually pretty cool when we arrived, because there was a rainbow over the tori gates, then watching the sunset over the mountain was spectacular. The pictures really don't do it justice.

Another place I visited was Kiyomizu-dera, probably another of the most famous places in Kyoto. The views of Kyoto are stunning and when you visit the main hall, you feel in a weird way like you're floating on the mountainside. I went with Misa and Miho, who I was a buddy to when they went on exchange to Keele last year. They were so adorable, as they'd been to Universal Studies in Osaka the day before and bought me some Hello Kitty stuff since they knew I hadn't gone. They even took me to a Hello Kitty restaurant I didn't even know existed, and I have to say it was super adorable. Hello Kitty shaped pasta is my new favourite thing. Later that day I met up with my current buddy Aoi, who took me around the smaller lesser known streets in Gion to get a Kyoto special matcha parfait. 

Finally, we also visited Nijo Castle, which was completely different to all of the other temples and shrines in Kyoto. It was definitely more regal, and considering it was so close to our hotel, I'm surprised it took us so long to finally go there.

That evening, a lot of the exchange kids decided to have a farewell since we left for our homestay the day after. We went to Sakura bar, which served all you can eat izakaya snacks and we all had a ball. I'm really surprised by how well we all get on, and it was nice to finally spend time socially together rather than just in class. It was a little bittersweet to be leaving for our homestay too, since we knew we'd have less freedom and less time to get to know eachother, but let's be honest, the homestay was probably what the exchange was going to be all about!

Geishas, Gion and a Golden Pavilion.

Well Kyoto, you didn't disappoint. Especially since on the first night I arrived the star festival was taking place on the street outside the hotel, so there were kimonos, yukata and street food galore! That first night was a bit of a blur after travelling, and I had to wait for Izzy my roommate to arrive quite late. The next day we had a day to explore before classes started, so we grabbed some custard taiyaki and had a mooch. I'm also convinced I broke my toe that day by kicking my suitcase, since it turned purple within the hour and still hurts now. Either way, I should be doing nursing since my taping skills were on point. That night we headed to get ramen with Xiao, and what was intended to be a quiet night was very much the opposite after we ventured into a basement "cafe". It turned out to be a cocktail bar, that after ordering ramen and tempura, whipped out the karaoke machine for us, while providing wigs and sunglasses for us to wear whilst on the stripper pole. I'm not sure if they were laughing with us or at us, but either way we had a ball, and I'm 99% sure they took some videos of us singing which could be anywhere.

The next few days were filled with classes, which have been great because they're much more conversational speaking based than I'm used to back at home. KUFS is actually pretty strange too! It's much smaller than I imagined, and you can tell a huge divide between boys and girls at lunch, when all the girls are in the cafeteria and the guys are sat outside. Most days we spent the afternoons exploring around the many temples, shrines and castles that Kyoto has to offer. You could live here all your life and not visit them all, I'm not kidding.

One day after class Hitomi, a girl we know from Keele, visited and took Izzy and I to Yasaka Shine and Chionin temple in Gion. We saw so many people dressed in kimonos and yukata since the Gion festival was coming up! I was made up too since we stumbled across some geishas when we were walking around Gion, which was pretty surreal because I felt like I'd gone back in time. Afterwards I had my first izakaya (Japanese pub) experience, and despite the random 60's British rock playing in the background, had a ball trying all sorts of new interesting foods. Cheese mochi balls are my new favourite thing.

KUFS organised a day trip to Nara for us, which is about an hour away from Kyoto. The temples are filled with deer, I have no idea why, and it amused me how there were actually instructions located everywhere on how to deal with a deer attack. One got a little friendly with the cuddly toys on my backpack, but I got a selfie with another so I think that's a pretty good achievement.

We've gotten pretty friendly with some Americans and Costa Ricans so have spend a fair few nights bonding over sake in our rooms. Saturday was fun-filled with it being Xiao's 20th birthday, and we started it by heading to Kinkakuji, or the Golden Pavilion. It was weird, because don't get me wrong, it was impressive, but I think the hype was a bit much. Out of the many temples I've visited I could think of so many others that were much more impressive. We then headed to Kyoto Tower, and after resisting all Hello Kitty merchandise as much as possible, we headed up. While we were there a cute little Japanese guy was painting caricatures, so we decided to get one. It was actually pretty good and I appreciated the fact he included my resting bitch face.

To conclude the celebrations, we headed into Gion, found a rowdy bar and befriend some Irish and lots of Japanese before loitering around before getting the first train home at 5am. All in all, we had a great first week. And life lesson, alcohol may not make your Japanese better, but hey, at least you feel like it is.

Hajimemashite, Tokyo!

Tokyo was the final stop on my mini tour of Asia with Haruka, and what a much needed pre-uni break it was! I hadn't realised how much I'd done in both Hong Kong and Seoul until I finally got a chance to chill out at Haruka's house. Although I've met her mum before, this was my first chance to meet her entire family which I was super excited about! Her brother actually lives about 5 minutes away from my accommodation when I'm in Kyoto, so it's nice to know I have someone there incase I need it.

On the evening we arrived, after a traumatic bus ride from the airport (note to self: don't drink coffee, milk, orange juice, water AND tea all before getting on a two hour bus with no toilet), I was treated to what Haruka's dad called a traditional Japanese bbq. I have to say, rice on a bbq was a new one to me! After that I was surprised with a birthday cake, since turning 20 is a big deal in Japan as you're finally deemed an adult. However my highlight had to be meeting Mimi, my favourite little pug. She developed a liking for chewing the plushy toy key rings on my backpack and stealing my socks, but you can't hold a grudge against a pug that lets you hold her like a baby.

The next day we went to Shin Yurigoaka station, the train station Haruka lives near to. It baffled me when I had only known her a few months and she announced she was having a day out at the train station, but now it made more sense. There's a lot of stores, even some cute ones like Kiddyland (the best place on earth for the likes of me, who are too old to really like animated characters but do anyway) so I did treat myself to some Gudetama socks. Great first purchase in Japan, Caitlin...

After practicing my Katakana reading practice in the Mister Donut, we headed to Uobei sushi for dinner with Haruka's mum. This was pretty cool, because you use tablets to order your food, which then gets delivered to your table by a conveyor belt, by a racing car, space shuttle and a shinkansen (bullet train).

Shibuya and Harajuku were on the cards for our next day, and if I'm honest, it wasn't at all what I expected. You get the perception that Tokyo is full of crazy fashion everywhere, especially in Harajuku, when in fact I barely saw that many. Haruka took me to Shibuya crossing first, and I really want to go back there during the rain to try and get some cool pictures of the umbrellas from above. Afterwards, we went to an ichiran restaurant, a ramen place where you order your food from a vending machine, get a ticket to select your ingredient preferences and sit in a booth made for one. You don't even see the people serving you, as they are hiding by a curtain. That was a strange experience, but oh my god, hands down the best ramen I've ever had! 

When we headed to Harajuku, I bullied Haruka into taking purikura with me, those typical photo booths where they make you look super kawaii and Japanese. It was hilarious, because they made my eyes look even bigger and I resembled an alien, and it was more worrying how Haruka actually suited the plastic surgery like things it did to us!

I was shocked that across the road from Harajuku station is Meiji Shrine, which you would have no idea was there. It's so peaceful and is such a contrast to the busy streets that it was probably my favourite "hidden" place I've found in Tokyo so far. Harajuku is famous for its crepes, so of course that had to be eaten before heading home too.

The next few days were more relaxed with me getting myself prepared for Kyoto. We headed to Yokohama in the afternoon just in time to see the ferris wheel lighting up. Yet again, we ended up at another romantic date spot so I think Haruka is trying to suggest something subconsciously... That was a food filled day, with Haruka's mum giving me my first yakisoba, then we got okonomiyaki and monja when we headed to Yokohama. It was a cool experience being able to cook the food in front of us, and it was amazing. Okonomiyaki is sort of a noodle omelette pancake with yummy goodness, and monja looks so wrong but tastes so right and I can't even explain it. You just eat it with tiny little metal spatulas which is a selling point in itself.

Over the next two days Haruka and I went to Shibuya again to smash karaoke which was the funniest experience I've had in a long time. Weird seeing people going into the booths alone though, who obviously take themselves way too seriously! Once Jane arrived we went into Tokyo again to the skytree, although the weather was too cloudy to see the top and we didn't go up. For my last evening, the Hattori's took us for sukiyaki, which was similar to hotpot and was an all you could eat meat place.

I'm still getting used to how most things I expect to be savoury in Japan are sweet, but now I've got myself prepared for my time in Kyoto!

I probably won't blog as much since wifi is harder to get ahold of, plus I'll have classes to attend, but hang on for the next update of my uni experience! 

Turning 20 in Asia's world city!

I'd been pretty excited about spending my birthday in Hong Kong since the day I booked my flights, and the day was finally approaching. On the Friday, I went to an island called Cheng Chau with Corane, which was about an hour ferry away. I'd heard wonderful things from everyone about Cheng Chau and it didn't disappoint. It was a nice chance from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong, since nobody on the island owns cars and the place is filled with bikes. Since there was an upcoming dragon boat festival in Hong Kong, we even got to see the teams practicing from the pier. I managed to try some weird foods too! Firstly, mango mochi, which Cheng Chau is famous for, and then an egg that had been boiled in tea. Surprisingly not bad once you get past the brown moulding look.
We then headed back to meet some of the other delegates from my past trip to Hong Kong for dinner in Mong Kok. I was totally surprised by the amount who turned up and made time in their schedules just to see me, so I was able to see a further five people during my trip which was more than I ever expected. We ate some interesting foods, most of which I still don't even know what they were, and then everyone surprised me with a birthday cake. I was so appreciative of the fact that even though I hadn't seen most of them for almost 3 years, and that sometimes our postcards and messages are lacking, they still came together as a family for me to celebrate while I was away from home!

Saturday was quite a chilled day since Haruka was arriving from Japan! This was going to be the start of our little tour of Asia before I head to Kyoto in July, as we're travelling to Seoul and then to her home in Tokyo. Typical, after picking her up our bus from the airport broke down, so by the time we got to Causeway Bay we went straight to a Taiwanese cafe for dinner which was amazing! Later we met Jane for dessert which was so surreal seeing them both in Hong Kong since I only ever see them in England.
Sunday was finally my birthday, a day filled with dim sum to the max. We'd been invited for dim sum with Jane's family in Sheung Wan in the morning, and afterwards the three of us visited Lan Kwai Fong for the first time. We went for "afternoon tea" too, consisting of pineapple buns and milk tea. They're not really pineapple, the top just apparently looks like one. Good timing too since a thunderstorm was brewing, and I'd be lying if I said I wasn't happy. After almost two weeks of constant humidity and heat, my birthday wishes had definitely been answered. We began to head to Kowloon, but the rain was so bad we ended up camping out at an MTR station for 20 minutes singing to keep ourselves occupied.
Haruka and I ended up killing time before dinner in a random shopping mall that was pretty amazing, before heading to Austin to find the Hello Kitty Chinese Cuisine restaurant, a place that specialises in dim sum. IT WAS PERFECT. Everything had so much detail and it was the perfect place for me being such a fan, with me also treating myself to a super cute plush toy only sold there. We then headed back and I wanted to show Haruka both central of an evening and the ding ding, but after getting drenched we decided to call it a night. It was a very different birthday than what I'm used to, but I wouldn't have changed it for the world!

For our last day, we went around a few of the sights in central before heading to Aberdeen, where Jane lives, to go to Jumbo Kingdom, the famous floating restaurant. It was nice to spend some more time with her since we hadn't really got a chance too! Then we headed to Mongkok for a final market experience, with me severely restraining myself from buying lots of shoes on sneaker street! However, I can't wait to be somewhere were the heat doesn't kill me every time I walk outside, and on that note, Seoul here I come...