Kurokawa Onsen

After visiting Oita last year, I’ve become a serious lover of relaxing weekends away in onsen towns. Kurokawa is one of the most famous onsen areas in Kumamoto, and for the past few months, every evening the river has been covered in hundreds of bamboo lanterns. Of course Kohei and I decided to head there for what is now becoming our annual onsen trip.

Despite having a few issues getting there, which is a given since I don’t know the ever changing road closures that well, once we arrived it was like we’d entered a little area of tranquility. Since this event was so popular, the main streets were super busy when we arrived; full of tourists who were only doing a day trip here, as many people do. 

A famous bakery, Patisierre Roku, makes the most beautiful choux creams; the vanilla smell wafted through the air every hour when the buns were cooked, and the queue was ridiculously long but worth it. Another gem we found was Shiratamakko, a small café specialising in traditional desserts; a must visit if you’re a fan of matcha, fluffy mochi in zenzai and super sweet ichigo daifuku. Most of the local stores close earlier, around 8pm, as most people staying in the ryokans overnight have dinner provided. We spent the early evening relaxing in yukata, before being treated to yet another amazing ryokan banquet. 

After dinner, we took our first onsen of the evening in the smaller baths located inside the ryokan. Kohei and I had planned to meet about 40 minutes later, but my god, I’ve never been in water so hot in my life. I instantly looked like a lobster, and so did he when we met in the corridor earlier than expected because we both couldn’t hack it.

After the onsen we got dressed in our yukata again and headed to view the illuminations. They were so beautiful and it was super tranquil. The only thing ruining it was, since it was the last weekend of the illuminations, too many people were ruining the aesthetic with their car headlights and pushing to take photos. This is often a downside to things like this in Japan… too many people end up ruining a beautiful moment, but thankfully Kohei and I managed to find an area a little quieter to enjoy it.

After enjoying some umeshu at a little hole in the wall bar, we headed back to the ryokan. The best thing about Japanese people liking to bathe before bed is that after waiting until later in the evening, Kohei and I managed to get the entire family size onsen to ourselves. Cue Kohei acting like a happy child floating away to his hearts content. Even better, I didn’t (literally) burn my ass off this time.

I’d definitely recommend an onsen getaway to anyone who needs to refresh themselves. The simplicity of the ryokan, and the peaceful locations really give you the opportunity to switch yourself off from the outside world. We’re already planning our next trip and may even make it a bi-yearly tradition from now on. 

During our drive home we also got some beautiful views of the Aso area from the recently reopened Milk Road. It made me realize how there’s still so much to discover even in my own prefecture, prompting another trip idea that will hopefully come to light in the next few months.